Sunday, June 28, 2009

Iza What?

Iza What?

Rome has the enoteca, Madrid has the pintxo bar, London has the gastropub and now New York has the izakaya. Iza what? It is the latest super cool trend to hit the shores of the Hudson River via Japan. No, it is not another ramen noodle shop or sushi joint. Izakaya is a compound word consisting of “i”(to remain) and “sakaya”(sake shop). It originated from the old sake shops throughout Japan, which allowed their customers to stay and drink. In modern times, it became a Japanese pub where men come to drink sake and beer after work while munching small snacks such as edamame, yakitori, tofu and tsukemeno (pickles).

Izakayas are usually sequestered in subterranean locales lending to an underground mood, both literally and figuratively. They are dark and cramped spaces, unassuming and alluring conjuring up images of the myriad of speakeasies proliferating New York throughout the 1920’s and 30’s. The izakaya is a welcome addition to a city that is already bursting at the seams with a vibrant restaurant and nightlife scene. In New York, with its wild and frenetic atmosphere, the izakaya has translated quite well, just like its Japanese counterpart.

As often as these trends come from abroad, there is always someone looking to elevate the concept to suit the American palate. In this case, that someone is Chef Michael Schulson, the TV personality behind the Style Network’s hit show, Pantry Raid. Upon leaving Buddakan in New York’s Cheslea Market in 2007 and spending seven months in Japan, he fell in love with the izakaya. In 2008, Chef Schulson opened Izakaya in the Borgata Hotel in Atlantic City as executive chef and owner. This is Japanese pub grub of the highest order complete with a lovely array of sakes and a western style wine list. Most of the dishes on the menu are traditional with a contemporary flair served in a warm and inviting environment. Whether you like a traditional setting or a nontraditional one, the izakaya is a must try. It is definitely here to stay! Kanpai!

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